Cuban
Cuban cuisine is a fusion of Spanish, African, Arabic, Portuguese, French and Caribbean cuisines. This results in a unique, interesting and flavorful blend of the several different cultural influences. A small Chinese influence can also be accounted for, mainly in the Havana area. Creole food, is influenced by African and Spanish cultures.
CUISINE HISTORY
Cuba is the Caribbean’s largest, most diverse and most beautiful island. What Christopher Columbus found was a geographically diverse land of rich mountains, fertile valleys, flowing rivers and clear springs. Along with all its land resources, he found an ocean full of fish, and trade winds that caressed and protected the island’s bounty. The deep links among Caribbean lands are reflected on the existence in the whole area of recipes from different regions. In spite of the “congrí” or “moros y cristianos”(moors and Christians) being so Cuban, the name “congrí” is originally from Haiti. There, the red kidney beans are called “kongo” and the rice “ri”. So the name comes from the Haitian Creole, meaning red kidney beans with rice. “Congrí” is not the same as moors and Christians as we usually call the rice cooked with black beans in Cuba.
Cuba’s original settlers, the Taìno-Arawack Indians, fished and hunted. There was a variety of fish and seafood in the lagoons and rivers and a climate where people didn’t need to store food. Even if they had wanted to, the humidity and the heat worked against it for the stored grain was quickly spoiled. They were so agriculturally advanced by the late 1400s that they had even developed aqua-cultural techniques. Taking advantage ofthe warm water species of the fertile Caribbean Ocean, they built corrals and fisheries to gather grouper, red snapper, tuna and shrimp. These fish were typically cooked on the “barbacoa” (BBQ). Along with fish, they served other land cultivated items: boniatos (white fleshed sweet potatoes), malanga (a beige to pink colored type of yam), hot chilis, yucca, cassava, pumpkins, peppers, “yautía” (wild malanga), avocado, peanuts, hutia (a kind of rodent), papaya, coconut, pineapple and guava, custard apples, mammees, anonas, icaco plums etc. Part of the aboriginal people’s legacy is the cassava bread and the “ajiaco”. They also introduced these Spanish explorers to what was to become the New World’s two most important crops: corn and tobacco.
In the years that followed, Cuba became one of the most important African slave trade depots. It was here from the 1500s through the 1800s that hundreds of thousands of slaves from the African west coast were brought in to be traded for money, ships, guns and other treasures. Many considered themselves fortunate to have even made it that far as so many were lost in the voyage itself. They brought the yam, the malanga, the banana and plantain, the okra, the guinea fowl and dishes such as fufú (mashed plantains) and the tostones (green plantains smashed and twice-fried). Along with them, new labor intensive crops were introduced into Cuba’s fertile growing regions to take advantage of the new found slave labor. These included many crops which were to become integrated into Cuban cuisine: beans, rice, various citrus fruits, mangos, coffee and sugarcane. From the African culture we also received our preference for white rice eaten with all the other foods, the fritters and the sauces. In return for their kindness and all the treasures that they shared with Columbus and the wave of Spaniards that came after him, the Taìno-Arawack Indians were mercilessly enslaved and slaughtered.
During colonial times by Spain, Cuba was an important port for trade. The Spaniards, when they arrived, on top of using the sources of proteins they found here, brought and reared poultry, cattle, pigs and horses, all of which developed colossally well. Cuba became a livestock producing giant and, in a few years, pork was the meat of choice for the Cuban landlords who also obtained fat from it.
The Spaniards from the south of the peninsula, that were usually the ones that came to the island during the first centuries of the colony, also liked fried food. Andalusia is an area were fried stuff is pervasive. The massive arrival of Spaniards of Catalonian culture reinforced the intake of rice. The east of Spain is a rice area among the culinary regions of that country. The Cuban cuisine had as its foundation the broad and varied Spanish cuisine which is a summing up of regional cuisines. This is a common phenomenon in the Hispanic Caribbean.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the heavy Spanish immigration, now made up mostly of northern Spaniards, made the Cuban gastronomy and cuisine even more markedly Spanish. In the gastronomy, the Spaniards took up posts as cooks in restaurants and family homes. In the cuisine they introduced the chick-pea stew, the bean stew, the sausages … The Cubans on their part began to take fat, chorizo sausages, bacon and cabbages out of the bean stew and the Galician bouillon. The Cuban bean soups ended up just being made with brisket, potatoes and a sauce.
Cuban cuisine, however, drastically changed after the Cuban Revolution in 1959. Fidel Castro overthrew the government. Cubans who opposed him began to flee the island, including chefs and restaurant owners. As a result, food shortages became frequent, and food that was still available was of poor quality. As of 2001, Castro was still in power and because of political disagreements with other countries, trade restrictions imposed on Cuba remain, so living conditions and shortages of food have improved little.
Today, in Cuba’s rich heartland, the sugarcane crops sway to the rhythm of the trade winds. Accounting for 70% of its export earnings, sugarcane has become its economic nemesis. Cuba’s dependency on sugarcane has left it vulnerable to low production yields and fluctuating world market prices. In recent years, these factors have had near catastrophic effects on Cuba’s people. On the western part of the island however, in the province of Pinar del Rio and Viñales, they have perpetuated the Taìno-Arawack tradition of tobacco production and cultivated it to make the world’s most sought after cigars.
MAJOR FOODS
- Crops (Corn, rice, beans)
- Meats Pork (heavily) and beef
- Seafood (Cuba itself is an island)
- Vegetables: Tuber vegetables (Yuca, malanga, boniato, potato), plantains
Cubans devour root vegetables in every meal. “Yuca con mojo” is a popular Cuban dish served during holidays. Yuca is exquisite if left marinating a while before serving, and is a typical Cuban food.
- Fruits Banana, plantation, mango, papaya, pineapple, guava etc.
A typical meal would consist of rice and beans, cooked together or apart.
When cooked together – Arroz congri“, “Congri”, or “Arroz moro”
When cooked separately – “Arroz con/y Frijoles” (Rice with/and Beans)”.
Rice and beans are primary foods throughout Cuba, although it varies by region.
In the Eastern part of islands, “arroz congri oriental” is the predominant rice and bean dish. White rice and red kidney beans are cooked together with a “sofrito”(a sauté of onions, green peppers, garlic, oregano and bay leaves) and then baked in the oven. The same procedure is used for the Congri, Arroz Moro, and Moros y Cristianos (black beans and rice. LIterally “Moors and Christians”). Although the process of preparing the black bean soup contains basics (onion, garlic, bay leaf, salt) each region has their tradition of preparing it.
Meat, when available on ration book is usually served in light sauces. The most popular sauce, used to accompany not only roasted pork, but also the “viandas”, is “Mojo” or “Mojito” (not to be confused with the Mojito cocktail, made with oil, garlic, onion, spices such as oregano and bitter orange or lime juice). The origin of Cuban mojo comes from the mojo sauces of the Canary Islands. Cuban mojo is made with different ingredients, but the same idea and technique is used from the Canary Islands. Of course with so many Canary Islander immigrants in Cuba, the Canary Islander influence was strong.
A main course (mainly pork or beef), some sort of vianda (several types of tubers as well as plantains, unripe bananas and even corn), a salad (usually simply composed of tomato, lettuce and avocado, though cucumber, carrots, cabbage and radish are not uncommon). Curiously, typical creole meals largely ignore fruit (except ripe plantains), which are usually consumed together with the rice and beans. Tropical fruit could be served, however, depending on each family’s preferences. Usually, all dishes are brought together to the table at once, except maybe for desserts.
Common spices & ingredients
Garlic, cumin, oregano and bay or laurel leaves. “Sofrito” (typical one: garlic, cumin, oregano and bay or laurel leaves.), black beans.
POPULAR DISHES
- “Arroz con Pollo”: Yellow rice with chicken
- “Ropa Vieja”: Shredded beef dish – usually shank – simmered in tomato-based criollo sauce until it falls apart. “Ropa vieja” means “old clothes”. It is also from the Canary Islands, as is many of the origins of Cuban food.
- “Boliche”: A beef roast, stuffed with chorizo sausage and hard boiled eggs.
- Cuban Sandwiches: Sandwich with slices of ham, pork, cheese, pickles, mustard, globs of mayonnaise on sweet egg bread is our most common merienda. The “pan con bistec” has thin palomilla steak, tomato slices and potato sticks. “Ironber” or “Malta” are the choice of soda.
- “Mariquitas”: thinly sliced plantain (the Latin American potato chips) — always accompany sandwiches.
- “Tamales: Though not exactly similar to its Mexican one, it’s made with corn flour, shortening and pieces of pork meat, tamales are wrapped in corn leaves and tied, boiled in salted water and served in a number of different ways. “Tamales en cazuela” is almost the same recipe, although it does not require the long process of packing the tamales in the corn leaves before cooking, but rather is directly cooked in the pot.
- “fufú”: boiled green bananas mashed into a paste, which is often eaten alongside meat
- “empanadas de carne”: meat-filled pies or pancakes
< Stews and soups >
These are usually consumed along with white rice or “gofio” (a type of corn flour, also from the Canary Islands), or eaten alone. Corn stew, corn soup (guiso), caldosa (made with a variety of tubers and meats), are popular dishes as well. Also common when available are the popular white bean Spanish stews, such as “Caldo Gallego” (Galician Stew), Fabada Asturiana (Asturian Stew) and Cocido de Garbanzos (Chickpea Stew).
< Beverages >
- “Guarapo”: Fresh sugar cane juice
- “Materva”: Soda made from an herb, Mate that grows in South America.
- “Iron Beer”: It’s been bottled for more than 80 years. It does have a faintly metallic taste.
- “Malta con leche condensada”: “Malta” (soda) with condensed milk
< Snacks >
Cubans don’t miss a snack. “Pastelitos” (pastries filled with guava, cheese or meat), croqueticas, or papa rellena (stuffed potatoes) are their daily snacks followed with a shot of cafecito. “Chicharrones”(fried pork skins. Light and puffy).
SOCIAL CUSTOMES AND TRADITIONS
- Normally, they sauté and slow-cook almost everything.
Cubans hardly deep fry food, except for tostones/deep fried mashed plantains, croquetas, vaca frita/fried cow, pescado frito/fried fish, masitas de puerco fritas/tender fried pork rinds, yuca frita, empanaditas, frituritas de bacalao/cod fish fritters, etc.
- Cuban way of cooking: natural, with very specific ingredients, spices (oregano and cumin)
It’s straightfoward cooking. Those scarce spices that limits or banishes the use of pepper and other hot spices. The most characteristic feature of Cuban cuisine is this mixture where the tomato sauce with few sautéed spices or Cuban sauce stands over the rest of the ingredients. The Cuban food is sweet; it has sauces or stews to let them soak the rice because they don’t like dry meals and includes rice-based dishes.
- For Cubans, Cuban “Cafecito” is a daily ritual.
They drink lots of “cafecitos”. Café Cubano (“cafecito”) is espresso coffee Cuban style. It is very strong and sweet — as it brews, the coffee actually drips into a little pot with several teaspoons of sugar. You pay for the café when you get it – it’s like 50~60 cents in Miami!! Once your cafecito arrives, you normally drink it at the counter. You can also order Cuban coffee to go. If you order a “colada,” you’ll get a styrofoam cup with a lid and several small plastic cups so you can share with friends 
Most café take out windows provide cold water and paper cups. Some people drink the cold water first, to clear the palate, others drink it last to dilute the coffee in the stomach.
- It’s a topic of much debate for them.
A “cortadito” has milk added – anywhere from a tablespoon or two to half milk and half coffee. “Café con Leche” – you get a small cup of hot milk and a shot of Cafecito in a demitasse cup. You dump the coffee into the milk and stir with a spoon. It is usually drunk at breakfast, with many people dunking Cuban bread or pastries into it.
- Cuban dancing – Mambo, rumba, salsa
The Salsa and Mambo were probably invented due to coffee spells. Who wouldn’t spin round and round and swing from chandeliers on that kind of rush?
- Cuban kids must be fed at all times so that they grow to be robust and healthy.
A skinny Cuban child is seen as sickly. Gossip will abound about the skinny child not eating enough. Girls had to grow up to be curvaceous women. Cuban Children are raised on espresso.
- Cuban refugee food: powdered milk and yellow cheese
“Real” Cubans never have pizza, pasta, nor heavy cream sauce, either. Bread and tomato sauce isn’t their idea of a feast. Cuban dinners are a feast in it’s own. They are huge portions of highly seasoned foods with the infamous “sofrito” and lots of salsita (drippings) on our rice. Yellow refugee cheese was exquisite. Bananas are big with Cubans. One of the perks about having been a refugee is getting the powdered milk. They even drink tap water with powdered milk! They also received large containers of peanut butter which we traded for Spam and canned ham with neighbors. Powdered eggs tasted too weird and nuclear, so I won’t recommend it. That was their diet for a while when they arrived from Cuba. So, if you’re interested in something spankin’ new, try Cuban refugee food.
- Cuban household without olive oil is like a bath without water.
They use olive oil for all our saucing. Olive oil and sofrito are our secret ingredients used for cooking black beans, stews, meats, fish, and anything. Meats and poultry are marinated in lime or naranja agria juices (sour oranges) and salt. They know how to cook slowly till the meat melts in your mouth. If you’ve never had your clothes reek of sofrito due to slow cooking carne con papas Cuban style, you’re not a true blue Cuban.
- Cuban love to cook feasts for holidays
They roast a pig marinated in salt, garlic, and sour orange juice over an open fire. “Congri”(white rice and black bean mix), “yucca con mojo” (It’s made with mojito: olive oil, lemon juice, sliced raw onions and garlic.), avocado, tomato and onion salad and maduros are their staples, along with walnuts, almonds and turrones. “Materva” soda is their favorite soda.
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